There are many interesting places within easy reach of Phnom Penh. Make a day-trip to see fine examples of classical Khmer temple architecture at Udong or gain an introduction to the Cambodian countryside. Indochina tours Cambodia
Silk Island (Koh Dach)
For those with an interest in Cambodian silks and silk weaving, set aside a half-day for a boat trip to a rural weaving village on Koh Dach (aka ‘Silk Weaving Island,’) a nearby island up the Mekong River. The weaving village is a typical rural Cambodian village, dedicated almost entirely to silk weaving - people operating hand looms under most of the houses, others dying and spinning silk on spinning wheels made of bicycle parts. The area does not receive a lot of tourists. Wander the village to observe the activities, and expect silk sellers to try to hawk their wares.
Arrange a visit through your guesthouse, travel agent or see tour/boat operators. CamboCruise offers regularly scheduled daily tours to the islands. If you want to do it yourself boats can be chartered for around $20/hour and take about 2 hours round trip plus the time you want to spend there. The boat may stop at ‘Mekong Island’ and some other weaving houses along the way. Make sure that the boat operator understands that you want to go all the way to the silk village on Koh Dach. Tours in Cambodia
Oudong
The abandoned royal city of Oudong sits amongst the hills west of Phnom Penh. Oudong was the capital city of Cambodia from the 17th century until 1866 when the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. Several temples, stupas and other structures cover three hills. The walk up the hill provides an excellent countryside view. The hill is crowned with stupas containing the remains of several Cambodian kings including King Monivong (1927-1941) and King Ang Duong (1845-1859). The earliest structure is from the 13th century. These hills were also the site of some of the Khmer Rouge’s most prolonged resistance against the encroaching Vietnamese army in 1979. Several new temples and shrines have recently been installed on the hill. For something completely different, take a side trip to ‘Prasat Nokor Vimean Sour’, a concrete, unduly ornate, semi-replica of Angkor Wat built circa 1998.
Take a Kampong Chhnang/Oudong bound bus. Get off at the billboard in Oudong town and take a motodup the rest of the way to the site.
Ta Prohm
Set out from Phnom Penh early in the morning and head directly to Tonlé Bati, about 32km (20 miles) distant. The chief attraction is the laterite temple of Ta Prohm, built by King Jayavarman VII on top of an earlier 6th-century Khmer shrine. The result is a well-preserved gem, not unduly large, but with some splendid decorative features. The main sanctuary has five chambers, in each of which is a statue or a Shiva lingam. Generally the shrine is favoured by fortune-tellers who will predict your future and read your palm for a few thousand riel. At almost any time a traditional orchestra will be playing outside the inner sanctum of the shrine, attracting offerings from pious visitors from Phnom Penh. Clouds of incense waft through the air, and the atmosphere is very much that of a living shrine.
Around 300 metres northwest of Ta Prohm is a lakeside picnic area, generally tranquil and free of crowds.
Phnom Chisor
From Tonlé Bati can continue south on Route 2 for around 23km (14 miles). The intersection for Phnom Chisor (Chisor Mountain) is located close by the two brick towers of Prasat Neang Khmau – the “Temple of the Black Virgin”, once probably dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali. A side road heads eastwards at this point, leading to the foot of Phnom Chisor which is about 4km (2½ miles) distant. The climb to the top of the hill is 100-metres (330ft) up and involves tackling as many as 750 unevenly spaced concrete steps, but the effort is worth it because of the spectacular views from the top over the surrounding countryside. Snacks and cold drinks are available on the way up and at the top, but it is still a hot and exhausting climb in the heat of the day. Anyone less than superlatively fit should make at least two rest stops on the way up, as there is plenty of time to take in the sights.
The main temple at Phnom Chisor stands on the eastern side of the hill. Constructed of brick and laterite, with lintels and doorways of sandstone, the complex dates from the 11th century, when it was known as Suryagiri. The isolation of the site, and the way the temple suddenly appears as you struggle over the crest of the hill, have led some writers to liken the temple’s atmosphere to that of a Southeast Asian Stonehenge or Macchu Picchu. Views from the far side of the temple, looking east, are spectacular.
